Sweet · Vayots Dzor, Areni

SWEET SUJUKH

Շարոց

Walnuts threaded on string and dipped again and again in thickened grape must until they set into dark ropes.

1 h + 1 week drying
Total time
Makes 8 strings
Yield
4
Steps
Armenian sweet sujukh, walnut strings coated in dark grape must, sliced on a board
Step by step

HOW IT IS MADE

  1. 01

    Reduce the must

    Boil the grape juice down by a third, skimming as it goes, and sweeten only if the grapes were sharp.

  2. 02

    Thicken with flour

    Whisk flour into a little cold juice, then stir it in and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats a spoon thickly.

  3. 03

    Thread and dip

    String the walnuts, then dip each string into the warm must and hang it to dry. Repeat five to eight times, once the previous coat is dry.

  4. 04

    Cure and slice

    Hang in a dry, airy place about a week until the surface is firm and matte. Slice at an angle to show the nuts.

At a glance
Difficulty
Medium (mostly waiting)
Energy
≈ 180 kcal per slice
Preparation
1 h, then dipping over days
Cooking
1 h reducing must
Season
September and October, at the grape harvest
Occasion
Weddings, New Year, gifts, children's treats
Cook's notes

GET IT RIGHT

  • Each coat must dry before the next, or the layers slide off.
  • Use dark grape juice for colour; pale juice looks anaemic.
  • Keep the must warm while dipping so it stays fluid.
  • Hang somewhere airy and dust-free, out of sun.

Variations

Rojik

The same must poured into sheets and rolled around walnuts as grape leather.

Mulberry sujukh

Made with mulberry juice in Syunik — paler and even sweeter.

Questions

ASKED IN THE KITCHEN

Can I use shop grape juice?

Yes, unsweetened dark juice; you may need slightly more flour.

Why is mine sticky after a week?

Humidity. Move it somewhere drier and give it a few more days.

History & Culture

WHY THIS DISH

Sujukh — also called sharots — turns the last of the grape harvest into a sweet that keeps for months, and belongs to the same autumn work as wine-making in the Areni valleys.

At weddings and New Year it was hung across the room like decoration, and children were given a whole string as a prize rather than a portion on a plate.

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