
Lavash
Paper-thin unleavened flatbread, blistered and scored in the tradition of the hearth.
Step-by-step →Veal beaten to a pale, airy paste and poached into a soft ball the size of a fist.

Traditionally the meat is pounded with a wooden mallet for an hour. A food processor works if you keep everything ice cold.
Add iced water a spoonful at a time, beating constantly, until the paste is pale, sticky and light. This is the whole dish.
Wet your hands, form large smooth balls and lower them into barely simmering salted water for 30–40 minutes.
Lift out, cut open at the table and pour melted butter over. Nothing else is needed.
The bulgur-shelled baked tray version — a different dish with the same name family.
A spoon of fried onion and butter hidden in the centre.
Underbeaten, or the meat warmed up. Both remove the lift.
Yes, in short bursts with ice water, but stop before the paste warms.
Ejmiatsin kufta is a test dish: the texture comes only from aeration, so a good one is springy and almost white, and a bad one is a heavy meatball.
Because the beating took hours, it was cooked for weddings and important guests, often by several men taking turns at the mallet — a rare instance of Armenian cooking as public performance.

Paper-thin unleavened flatbread, blistered and scored in the tradition of the hearth.
Step-by-step →
Charcoal lamb glazed in pomegranate molasses, the Sunday centerpiece of the Caucasus.
Step-by-step →
Hand-pleated beef dumplings, fried crisp and buried under a crown of black walnut.
Step-by-step →